The star of a Korean meal, to me, is its entourage of side dishes, served in miniature plates called banchan. When prepared with creative imagination and matching culinary talent, they light up a table as do pieces of glittering gems.
Unfortunately, those I had at the Kung Suh—a Zagat-rated restaurant in the heart of the Korean section of Midtown Manhattan—was a crushing letdown. There were only four kinds, and not one of them was a dish that wasn’t sold in a jar in an Asian supermarket.
The main course, a bowl of hwe dup bob, was nothing but a tumble of green leaves, with a clump of rice and a few strips of poorly marinated fish.
It’s eminently possible that I’d made a poor choice in making my selection. But I’m fairly certain that had I ordered another dish, it would’ve been no crowd-pleaser either.
I’d award the restaurant a “C.”