If there is a cheese that has a lunar look, then it’s mimolette. A boule of it looks like a craggy cannonball, pockmarked with many uneven holes—a countenance with a controversy.
Its cratered rind, notoriously difficult to put a knife through, is the handiwork of tiny bugs, encouraged to feed on it before being brushed off. The inside, smooth and creamy, is the color of the Sun setting at a Pacific beach.
A hard, cow’s milk cheese, produced around Lille, it’s styled after the Dutch Edam. Legend has it that Louis XIV wanted the cheese dyed orange so as to be distinctly French.