When I came across a recipe for “Dutch Baby” in the cooking section of the New York Times, the name piqued my curiosity, but I had some trouble placing the confection in a gastronomical class—for good reason. An offshoot of pfannkuchen, a German pancake, it’s everything a pancake isn’t.
Fluffy and porous, it’s like a giant popover, baked; not made on a griddle. When it comes out of the oven, it looks like a model of a golden crater, with a mildly terraced floor; steep, porous walls; a crispy, outer rim. A no-hassle preparation, it’s excellent for breakfast or as a dessert—all year round.