Food, Foreign

Edible Filigree

A bowl of su filindeu.
A bowl of su filindeu.

Su filindeu (Italian for “threads of god”) is the rarest and the most endangered pasta in the world. Only three women know how to make it.

[It’s] made by pulling and folding semolina dough into 256 perfectly even strands with the tips of [their] fingers and then stretching the needle-thin wires diagonally across a circular frame in an intricate three-layered pattern. The base is then set out to dry in the Sardinian Sun.

After a few hours, they form into sheets of razor-thin, white pasta that resembles filigree.

It’s so difficult and time-consuming to prepare that for the past 200 years, the sacred dish has only been served to the faithful who complete a 20-mile pilgrimage on foot or on horseback from Nuoro to the village of Lula for the biannual Feast of San Francesco.

Now, it’ offered by three local restaurants.


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